Post written by andrew | 6 Comments »

Yes, somewhere it is spring. Today new york  is getting 18 inches of snow. In my grocery store the price of asparagus has reached a reasonable level. In minnesota asparagus season is late may/ early june. The farmers markets are open saturdays in february, meat is for sale. my local ‘local’ store has hydroponic/aquaponic lettuces for sale. the process for aquaponics is basically hydroponics, with tilapia fish farming providing the water and fertilizer. i can still get a decent tomato from bushel boy. sorry, i gotta go. enjoy

asparagus pasta

  • 1/2 cup asparagus
  • 3 lbs cooked pasta
  • mushrooms
  • prosciutto
  • gr. onion
  • thyme
  • tarragon
  • olive oil
  • heavy cream
  • parmesan
  • egg yolk

saute asparagus, mushrooms and green onion in olive oil in a hot 12″ saute pan
add prosciutto, and herbs
add cream and reduce
add parmesan cheese and finish/thicken sauce with 1 egg yolk( remove pan from heat)
mix in pasta
serve in pasta bowl with garnish

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by andrew | 4 Comments »

elegant: in my opinion, is a recipe which comes off tasty every time you make despite the fact that you never make  with the same ingredients. fried rice is like that there are some common ingredients in the recipe and the technique is the real elegant part. wok cooking is a techique that calls for mis-en place. you can’t start a dish w/out having all the ingredients lined up and ready for throwing into the sizzling wok.

the average home model gas stove is barely serviceable for wok cooking and don’t get me started on woks and hot wires.  the commercial kitchen has a wok burner that sounds like a jet engine, and the vessel is thinner walled than a home wok.  that said , i still use a wok at home on my maytag gas stove. i do have a more powerful burner( standard issue) in the front that i use.  the wok i use has a slight flat spot and a handle, the construction is moderately heavy. i like the traditional tools for wok cooking; the ’spoodle’ and the shovel,they are necessary for measuring as well as manipulating the ingredient in the wok

fried rice

  • leftover rice,cooled and large lumps eliminated
  • garlic
  • ginger
  • oil
  • soy sauce
  • honey
  • ketjup manis
  • onions, carrots, peas, mushrooms,
  • left overs: meat, eggs, vegies

prep ginger and garlic, minced fine or put through garlic press if you like cleaning that contraption. prep rice, just run your fingers thru it to break up and large lumps. prep vegetable; slicing in sizes according to speed of cooking technique, thin slices which will be cooked or heated rapidly.

heat oil in wok until smoking, discard oil and add fresh oil to wok. add minced garlic and ginger, stir fry 30 seconds, add salt.

add vegetables and cook 2-3 minutes, add other ingredients, finally add rice and stir/scrape with ’shovel’  to distribute vegetables and meat in dish, also to warm rice, you may want to add stock or rice wine to fully warm by steaming as the liquid hit the bottom of the wok,  if you have a large amt in the wok.

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by andrew | Leave Comment »

http://twitter.com/bluecollarcook

i’m trying to maintain current, the industry is about moving fast. i enjoy the writing and will keep it updated regularly. we’ll see if the 140 character format leaves me wanting more.

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by kristin | 5 Comments »

Beautiful, bountiful carrots

Carrots are a pretty simple vegetable, not fussy, one bright green stalk complements one lovely orange root. And they are nutritionally packed: Vitamins A, C, K, Folate, fiber, Beta-carotene. The Brits, it seems, even have a museum devoted to them, calling them a “nutritional hero.” I like it. Read the rest of this entry »

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by kristin | 2 Comments »

Meyer Lemons

As the saying goes, when life gives you lemons you can make lots of lovely stuff. Lemon juice, lemonade, lemon bars, lemon curd, lemon chicken… it all tastes good. And don’t forget what a nice touch lemon and olive oil is on a salad of fresh greens. Read the rest of this entry »

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by andrew | Leave Comment »

One of the first things I learned in restaurants was the importance of two things: Good bread and good coffee. In a dining experience the first impression you make on a consumer is with the bread served before the meal, it has to be good since it serves as a preview for the rest of the meal. Similarly with the coffee, it provides the final impression of the dining experience. Even if the service was awful and the food mediocre; a consumer will leave with the taste of a good coffee in his mind. I’m not advocating ignoring other aspects of food service but rather that an operator strive to provide an excellent cup of coffee.

How do I prepare an excellent cup of coffee?

The ingredients for a cup of coffee are quite simple; filtered fresh water and ground coffee beans. At no part in this article will I mention the term ‘gourmet’ in reference to coffee. I feel that the use of that term clouds the issue and is in fact a meaningless adjective. We have all enjoyed coffee, but a really good cup may be eluding many consumers. So on with the show!

I start with a piece of equipment called the press pot, or French press. This is a glass carafe, with a stainless steel plunger ( figure 1). A measured amount of freshly ground coffee in placed in the carafe; I recommend 2 tablespoons per 6 oz. cup. Freshly heated water; preferably filtered , is thenspring water, heated to boiling and allowed to cool to 190 introduced into the grounds. Fill the pot halfway, stir the grounds , and continue to fill the presspot to about 2 inches below the rim. Insert the plunger and submerge the ground coffee below the waterline. After 3 minutes, depress the plunger to the bottom of the carafe. Decant the coffee into serving sizes and enjoy.

The first thing you will notice about this method of brewing is the cloudiness and ‘texture’ of the brew. This is intentional and increases the flavor of the coffee by introducing oils that paper filters absorb. It may be a stronger flavor than most consumers normally enjoy, but not an unpleasant or bitter taste. If it is ‘too strong’ add hot water to the cup (not the presspot), by this method one can dilute the beverage and not over-extract the ground coffee. There will be finely ground sediment at the bottom the cup when you have quaffed the brew. The sediment can be eliminated by decanting into a pitcher the fresh brew , allowing the ‘fines’ to settle and then pouring into the serving cup.

In my experience the simplest recipes are often the most difficult. The precautions are as follow: 1) use ‘clean’ equipment, free of oils and residue from washing or previous use, 2) fresh, ‘good tasting’ water, preferably filtered, not just tap water. 3) use high quality coffee, freshly ground and of a texture that ensures complete extraction of the flavor. The first two are easy to monitor through simple quality control in an average restaurant setting. The third requires some explanation.. Freshness is the most important in my mind, a fresh grind will foam when water is added to the grounds. No foam or bubbling and the coffee is stale, it’s that simple. A properly ground sample will allow full extraction of the coffee, without any ‘bitterness’. In this method the grind is coarser than drip coffee. The grind also allows a minimum of sediment in the cup, no-one really wants a cup of ‘mud’.

With all this in mind, continue to taste as many samples of coffee as you can and choose the one you enjoy. Both your customers and your employees will appreciate the time spent. If you don’t like coffee, hire a consultant or ask another staff member to be in charge of the selection. A good cup of coffee is as much a matter of taste as good glass of wine, and one’s palate must be accustomed to the flavors. Purchase the beans from a reputable source, and take the time educate yourself about coffee.

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by andrew | 2 Comments »

gumbo, Brunswick stew, jambalaya, bourgu these are the one pot work horses of the kitchen. the structure is loose but each has it own ingredients and if you mis-fire somebody will tell you about. i once worked with a chef who kept a ‘gumbo box’ in the freezer, into to this went all edible meat scraps, and some things that where questionable. i once had bouillabaisse outside of gulf shores Alabama that included shrimp shells and chicken necks.

there are three ways to thicken gumbo; roux, file` or okra. roux is flour and fat slowly cooked to a rich brown, for flavoring as much as a thickening agent, file’ is mainly the inner bark of the sassafras tree and okra when cooked produces it’s own thick exudate. creole and Cajun cooking often rely on three ingredients as a base; onions, green pepper and celery. seafood is one of the staples of the Louisiana pantry, so gumbo should have a little bit of fish or shellfish. outside of these ground-rules the recipes vary, i like to think i make a decent sausage gumbo. so clean out your cooler and join me in a mardi gras tradition at my house.

Read the rest of this entry »

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by kristin | 2 Comments »

Tuesday February 16, 2010 is Mardi Gras or Fat Tuesday. The end of the Carnival season. Actually, I got myself quite confused and decided two weeks ago that Mardi Gras was on February 2; I have no idea where the idea came from but it was solidly embedded. So I quick baked a King Cake just in time. Well, it was early but turned out to be a good thing, ’cause I never got around to baking another this year.

I had my first King Cake, actually a Galette des Rois, in France in January 1994 for the Fete des Rois.  They generally look like this:

They are very refined: almond paste layered between pastry sheets. There is a porcelain figurine inside it and if you find it you host the next celebration. Or you have good luck or something. My attempt last year to make one of these was not so successful; better left to the professionals.

Then in 1996 I moved to New Orleans and discovered a whole new King Cake custom.  Like many things in New Orleans, it is over the top. The Carnival season starts on January 6, Epiphany, and the celebration gains steam through Mardi Gras. And there isn’t just a King Cake on the sixth nor are the parties limited to weekends only, it is an everyday ocurrence. The Cakes look something like this:

My King Cake 2010

 They are nothing like the ones in France. As with many things in the Big Easy, they are as unassuming as the French are sophisticated. Garishly decorated with brightly colored icing and sugar on top of a yeast dough and filled with a cheese type filling or nuts with cinnamon and sugar, they are available on every street corner. Yum! Some of the grocery store varieties are tasty and then there is the famous Gambino’s Bakery version, one of my favorites. Each cake contains a plastic baby. That about sums up the differences.

Inspired by my cousin Mary, this was my first go at the New Orleans version. Tasty.

At midnight on Mardi Gras the Mayor of New Orleans accompanied by the NOPD will ride on horseback through the French Quarter and Carnival will end. So we will enter the season of contemplation.

  • Share/Bookmark
Post written by kristin | Leave Comment »

The beautiful and tasty pomegranate seeds

So I thought I should at least introduce my new Blog, despite the acute and severe case of writer’s block that has taken a profound hold on me since the actual inception of the webpage.

I would often check out the natural foods market and after a stint in Santa Fe, NM I became more interested in the food I ate (they are very New Agey there). Wild Oats and The Marketplace were great; Whole Foods was but a babe in arms at the time. A stint in France in 1994 showed me how people live a little differently: they buy fresh food nearly daily, refrigerators are small and in each town or city there is a green market.

But really, the clincher was having my own kids. Then I really began thinking about the food I put into my body as well as their little mouths.

I read Super Baby Food by Ruth Yaron cover to cover. Then I started in earnest: made homemade baby food almost exclusively for child #1 and child #2 wouldn’t actually even eat the stuff from a jar! We were at the Farmer’s Market in Alameda  nearly every week and when not there at Alameda Natural Grocery.

Then came the sourdough, homemade yogurt and jam and applesauce… on and on until here I am in 2010 ready to blog about it all ’cause it’s so much fun! And not as hard as you think, to put good, wholesome food in the tummies of those around you. If a working mom with two little ones can do it, so can you!

Now I am trying to convince my cousin the chef to join me. C’mon Andrew!

  • Share/Bookmark